Red Rocks - Epinephrine (5.9+)

Summary

A fun route with relatively solid rock, fun movement, and length makes for a type 1 day out. If the leader is physically able to climb 5.12 and has the knowledge and head for trad climbing this route will feel easy. The second should be comfortable attempting moves at 5.12, most hard moves are well protected for the second and objectively risky moves are much easier climbing and there are plenty of options for communication.

Gear

1 x 60 m rope

1 x tagline (for hauling bags and/or to rappel the route)

16 x draws (half alpine would be a good idea)

0.3 - 2 cams with a light rack of nuts.

Micros (black, blue and green Alien) are helpful for backing up small gear and/or reducing runouts.

Pitch notes

P1 : Weird unprotected start, be careful of loose hand/foot holds, move slow until first piece. Crux at hand crack, protect before and after.

P2 : Move left and then link massive holds together for 30 m, following bolts. Use alpines to reduce rope drag when climbing easy and fall unlikely. Use short draw at crux. Use extra long draw after crux. Runout climbing after crux, move carefully and place piece before traversing back left.

P3 : Move back into corner and follow bolts straight up. Crimpy pitch but well protected. Place piece after last bolt for second, watch pendulum swing.

P4 : Use sling to TR the first clip, Follow jugs and bolts rightward to the crux crack. Place #0.75 before crux move. Use two slopey crimps and stem smears to make upward progress, do not go into this sequence pumped! Watch for loose flake in crack.

P5 : Loose traverse. Watch for rope stimulated rockfall for people below.

P6 : Up and left, placing protection with alpine draws. Crux move is a small cam and a finger lock. Place protection after crux for follower.

P7 : Move up and left to bolt and then up the rib to the anchor. Straightforward

P8 : Follow Red Shirt traverse until loose pinnacle and then move up to hand crack. I place #0.75, #2, #0.5 and then #1 at the top. Options for nuts exist in the top crack!

Shortpitch to the scree slope above the anchor.

Rappel/Retreat

2x60 m ropes needed to rap. Anchors do not have rap rings so be prepared to leave material behind.