Mt Kidd - The Fold (5.8)

Approach


1 hour up hill, take first creekbed to climbers trail. Watch for ticks. Get to left side of rib, hike carefully. Watch for bolt on first pitch. Best to set up for climb before (by creek or in gully) 


Gear : micro-3 X2 .3-2 10 alpines. Piton hammer and pitons. 


60m rope works fine. Option to extend some pitches with 70's, with rope drag and stretch(ledges), probably not worth it.


6-8 hours to climb?


P1 : watch for loose blocks and split ropes if half's. Loose rock and traverses. Belay at ridge crest.


P2 : climb ridge crest to crux, tick crux holds, belay above crux


P3 : climb left up several crack features to top. Belay at top of feature. 


-> Move belay to piton and cams


-> Walking pitch to base of headwall, walk together or one at a time. Belay off of small gear. 


P4: climb wall on small gear, no fall mentality, good pro at top. Belay on cracks at left. 


Move belay to ledge, two cams in crack


P5: climb ridge with small pro and loose rock the rib change. Belay off of small pro in corner. Option for bigger pro on right side or med lower left. 


P6: climb up and right, ticking holds and placing tons of gear. Continue up the groove to a slot to belay from (watch for piton)


P7: climb up and left to the rib, pass two pitons to a straight in crack, 2x .5 & .75


P8: traverse right into chimney, climb straight up on small gear to bolts. Split ropes for traverse? 


P9: climb up and right to corner. Option to traverse left at piton for more exposure or continue up corner to belays at ledges. Spectacular pitch! 


P10: climb straight up on runout terrain to a crack. Continue up crack to a downsloping ledge. Climb to screen ledge and x3 piton belay. Back up with grey alien. 


P11: climb loose headwall above, poor pro. Move left on decent holds. 


Rap:


Saddlebag ropes BOTH times. Low angle terrain and often windy so throws don't work. 


Walk past scree to ridge and unharness there. Walk off down obvious trail to approach trail approx. 1 hour. 


Final descent down the gully is loose, coach, go one at a time, don't rush. Follow trail back down to stream. 



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Yamnuska - Direttissima (5.8+)

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Squamish - Grand Wall (5.11a A0)