El Portreo Chico - El Sendero Diablo (5.11c)
Summary
The path of the devil holds true to it’s name. With some technical difficulties but mostly gently overhanging jugs this climb is engaging and fun to climb. The route follows a left trending line so it constantly feels exposed and commiting, despite being in such a comfortable climbing destination. One of my favourite routes that I climbed in EPC.
Gear
1 x 80 m rope
10 x quickdraws
6 x alpine draws
Pitch Notes
P1 : The climbing is supposed to start easy but I found this pitch to be a little cryptic and the bolting to be off the climbing line. Regardless I just made my way to the anchor in hopes of my enjoyable climbing.
P2 : This is the pitch that I noticed the button head bolts. After some research I found that they were made by Petzl years ago and should be strong enough. They insprired more confidence then the rusted bolts I found on other climbs in EPC but I wouldnt be surprised if these are replaced in the future. The climbing at the crux was engaging but short lived. Bolts felt appropriately spaced and the climbing/falls felt safe. An enjoyable pitch.
P3 : Another great pitch with little difficulty. I started to suspect the grades were inflated at this pitch and just focused on reading the rock to get the onsight of the climb.
P4 : This pitch goes through some unique rock before the route. I extended the draw below the roof and there was decent holds to get onto the face above it. The feet were a little tricky however and I suspended most of my weight from my arms. At the top of the pitch was some loose blocks out right that needed to be avoided.
P5 : Easier climbing up to the exposed arete. I was able to clip high to protect the ledge fall and then go right hand into the pocket. This freed up my left hand to the arete which had a perfect pocket for my fingers as I pinched the arete. A spectacular position to be in! The rest was uneventful expect for a rightward traverse into a mantle with a driveby to finish. Delicate climbing at the top which could be the sting in the tail for some.
P6 : A little rough easier climbing to the ridgetop where there is a directional perma draw and anchors above it.
Rappel/Retreat
Rappelling this route would be interesting and would involve traversing rappels. I kept an eye out for anchors on parallel lines to have more straightforward rappels if we needed to bail.
There is a dedicated rap line with many permanent draws to clip to keep you close to the wall as the wall is overhanging. A mistake here would be immeadiately consquential so going slow and having a dialed system is nice. As we got closer to the ground there was more anchors so its possible to have different combinations of rappels. We did it in 5 rappels.
