El Portreo Chico - Saltori (5.10c)
Summary
An aesthetically pleasing climb that goes straight up from the base of the wall. It climbs a face just to the right of an arete so it feels exposed. Tons of incut holds and options for sequences as well as nice views make this an enjoyable climb. The approach is longer than other climbs in the area but the views are worth it.
Gear
1 x 80 m rope
6 x quickdraws
6 x alpine draws
Pitch Notes
P1 : Two bolt lines at the bottom and we chose the left hand one. The bolts were newer, the line was cleaner, and it was above the sign. The bolts to the right are part of a different climb and had much less signs of traffic on them.
P2 : Easier climbing up to a ledge with loose rock. I chose to extend my belay to keep the rope out of the dirt/gravel as well as being able to see my partner.
P3 : Up and trending right to the next anchor. There is a thought provoking move at the third draw and I extended my draw so that my partner could aid it, as opposed to unclipping and exposing themselves to a pendulum fall into the corner.
P4 : The climbing gets more interesting here with the later part of the pitch giving harder moves. I chose to weave around the bolt line to capitalize on the easiest terrain.
P5 : Another exciting pitch that I felt was pretty consistent. Not much to add except for a couple of loose blocks that were marked with an X.
P6 : This is the money pitch but I think it could also be called the hero pitch. The blank section is a crimp fest into a juggy bulge. I felt the exposure as the wall kicked back. Very fun pitch!
P7 : Summit pitch was easier climbing but defintely some of the more dangerous climbing of the day with very space bolts and tons of ledges and loose rock to handle. I went slow to manage my movement and coached my partner.
Rappel/Retreat
Turnaround at any point. This route got really busy and most of the anchors are at hanging or semi hanging stances so communication, saddle bagging ropes and some flexibility in working with others was nice on our way down. There is some loose rock at the top and on the ledge above the second pitch to be cautious of.
