El Portreo Chico - Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a)

Summary

A short and sweet climb that is easily done in half a day or less. Consistent climbing on clean rock with enough interesting movement to be thought provoking, but not enough to slow the pace of the day. I found it the movement challenging and not easy to read for a newer climber.

Gear

1 x 80 m rope

12 x quickdraws

Pitch Notes

P1 : A high first bolt gives way to easier climbing on massive jugs above. The top of the climb has bolts that do not follow the easiest line of climbing. I chose to traverse left to clip the last bolt and finish the pitch on the left.

P2 : Fun climbing on edges to a couple of big moves with pockets and the some more fun climbing on edges (and small pockets).

P3 : Launching back into some small edges to easier climbing and a juggy bulge pull. Belay with the two best bolts of the bunch at the anchor.

P4: This pitch was a little odd. the first three bolts were below and right of the climbing, making it weird to second. I coached my follower to just aid them as 5.10a was above her limit. The rest of the pitch gave us some nice big holds to the top.

Rappel/Retreat

Rappel from wherever on the route. Since EPC is popular, make sure to act appropriately when parties are below you (saddlebag).