Yamnuska - Super Direct (5.11a)
Summary
An aesthetic climb that stabs up the middle of Yamnuska. The first half has a sporty feel to it with approprately spaced bolts and cruxes that consist of technical face climbing. The second half takes on a traditional feel with long runouts, loose rock and less bolts. The top of the climb is incredibly loose and bridges the gap between the style of the last couple pitches and the scree at the summit.
Gear
2 x 60 m ropes
12 x quickdraws
6 x alpine draws
Micro cams - #3 with nuts
Pitch Notes
P1 : The start is shared with Direttisima except instead of going left at the first bolt continue upwards for several bolts. At a ledge make a cruxy traverse left and then up to a corner with a bolted belay. No gear was placed on this pitch.
P2 : Continue up the corner above to a mantle (easily bypassed with face holds on the left), and then make several harder face moves to easier ground and the next anchor. No gear was placed on this pitch.
P3 : Easier moves off the anchor rightward leads to piton. Trend left from the piton to another series of harder, technical, and delicate moves to a jug that leads to the next anchor. I found this pitch to be very well bolted for the sustained nature. No gear was placed on this pitch.
P4 : This pitch marks the end of the sport climbing with a runout to the first bolt. We placed a 0.5 and a blue alien in the crack before reaching the first bolt. Continue up the crack/corner to the last bolt. From here the climb takes you hard right on slopey feet and a sidepull. Strenuous and delicate moves lead up to steepening ground on spaced out bolts. Not getting tunnel vision is key on this pitch as many of the holds are on the far left or far right of the bolt line and are not obvious. After the last bolt on the steep face, move right to lower angle terrain with many sloping feet and hands. Moving up and left gets you to the next anchor. I found this pitch to be the crux of the route.
P5 : The climb shifts more into the traditional style as the next pitch is long and runout. Ramble up to a corner with a small cam placement, continue up to a bolt and a series of ledges. The crux has several bolts on a right trending traverse in the same style as the second and third pitches. Once overcome, ramble up loose rock with bolts to the ledge, make sure not to stop at the anchor on your right as that is the anchor for Mixed Emotions. A full length pitch.
P6 : Continue on the ledge leftwards to climb a pillar with bolts for protection. Once the pillar ends, trend right on ledges to easier ground. Ramble up easier ground to meet up with Direttisima. Move left across the gully at a piton to find a bolt. Clip this and continue up and left to a crack. At this point you can go up the crack to a #2 placement. I went hard left here and down to the next anchor. If you continue up there is a horizontal #0.75 placement that can be used as the first piece for the next pitch.
P7 : Climb up loose rock to a bolt and a crack. I found the crack and surrounding features to be steep and slippery however it takes good gear in good rock. Once the steepness is overcome, head up and right on easier and loose ground to the arete. Follow the arete up to meet up with Direttisima. Follow the weaknesses for several meters untill the topo says to move left. There is a bolt in the slab above, however I chose to continue following Direttisima rightwards on easier ground.
P8 : This anchor is shared with Direttisima. Move up to a steep corner that is easier than it looks to a slab. Climb up the slab to a bolt. Protect the second after the bolt by placing a 0.75 high up in the crack before traversing left below the roof. Rope drag is an issue on this pitch. Once left of the roof climb up face holds to the next roof which is very blocky and is wise to approach with caution. Once the key holds have been identified as secure, pull over it to easier ground above. There is a harder move at a changing corner however there is a good crack in front of you for protection. I found this pitch to be the most challenging in terms of protection and loose rock on the route.
P9 : From the anchor follow a hand crack to a jug rail on the right. The bolt above signals the start of the loose rock. I found many loose blocks on the climbing line so careful climbing is encouraged. Once at a ledge with good protection at your feet and a vertical crack, move leftward to a bolt and then up the arete/corner to a bolted belay at the summit. Care is needed on this pitch as well as at the top as there is an abundunace of loose rock up there.
Rappel/Retreat
Rappel is not recommended from the top for obvious reasons. Retreat makes sense from the top of Pitch 5, however gets more challenging above as the pitches steepen and the terrain is more featured.
