El Portreo Chico - Las Agujas - Crack Test Dummies (5.9)
Summary
A climb with a disctinct old school taste that has been retro bolted since the guidebook (EPC Climbing 3rd Edition) was released. We found more bolts then the book described. The feel of the climb hasn’t been altered with some serious runouts, fall consequences (ledges, bulges, sharp rock) and old gear (some rusty pitons).
Gear
1 x 80 m rope
6 x quckdraws
6 x alpine draws
Pitch Notes
P1 : Ramble up the corner. Make sure to test the blocks before you pull on them. They were secure when I climbed it but they will come out one day. I chose to build an anchor on the top left of the corner to position the belayer out of a fall zone and to hopefully be a more comfortable ledge for the two of us
P2 : Step right back into the corner with difficulties above. Knowledge and experience in crack and corner climbing is an asset to make upwards progress. Ticking holds and coaching is a good idea. There is some really great holds and rock on this pitch, not to mention the joy in topping out on the rest of the spire!
Rappel/Retreat
The route is rigged with chains at the anchors but with all the cracks I would be concerned about getting a rope stuck. The best strategy is to rappel climbers right to intersect the adjacent route. From the top this is easily done. We did it in two raps easily.
