The Ghost - The Wraith (5.10a)

The wraith

River crossing:

Road:

Gear: micros to 4, doubles .75-3 comfy or 2-3 average. 

6 draws, 6 alpines

Walk up and far right past yellow rock and overhangs to obvious corner with bolt belay at ground and three bolts on slab to corner. 

P1 climb to first bolt and then head into chossy corner to reach second bolt. Traverse left into corner after third bolt. Once in corner, place consistent gear and remember to stem out. Don't get suckered in! 

P2 half rope technique? Only clip one rope and leave second as a top rope for the crux move. Follow bolts left and then right, runout so climb carefully. Tick holds! 

P3 can combine with P2 if guest competent and with half rope technique. Otherwise follow bolts and crimps to anchor.

P4 short pitch up and left to a slab, place two good cams and make a commiting move into a groove, step back right and place a blind #3, continue up insecure moves to belay. Better to take variation? 

P5 climb up crack, placing gear when possible, err on the side of caution as next belay is ~20m away. Runout to anchor 

P6 crux pitch. Place big cam (and back up) before committing to strenuous roof pull with iffy foot. Climb insecure crack to the anchor. Hand payback crack at the end so save a handful of handsize cams. 

P7 good #2 in corner, can protect with a #.4 first before making move. Once in corner can place another good cam before moving right, and then left to kneebar block. Place big cam on lower left and small cam upper left for pro. Go to anchors!

P8 can combine with P7 if second is bouldery, maybe miss photo ops? Extend belay across gulley to maintain eyesight, communication, and photo opportunities.

P9 ramble up corner to ledge, can fit small marginal gear in - watch for sneaky placements! Follow face into water runnels and shoot for the top to bolt belay. 

Short rope a short section up the scree cone. 

Rappel: walk off to waterfall rappel. Can belay downclimb off of two cams. CAN do x2 70m rappel to get to ground, go down gully! If doing single rope rap then go climbers left beside waterfall to find next station. Hold ropes near wall and out of rockfall zone if linking raps. 

Walk down drainage to meet up with trail and take a left to go back to car.