Yamnuska - Forbidden Corner (5.9+)
Forbidden corner beta
Consistent at the grade and a long day. Options for bailing halfway up pewter out after traverse. Choose wisely!
Gear: micro-#4, doubles 1-4, every other nut. 6 draws, 6 alpines.
P1 - hard to protect leader on this pitch, climb slowly and check holds. Protect before traverse for second. Minimal gear.
P2 - alt pitch 10c tough at second bolt, go up on crimps with high right foot on bulge and then right to stem smears clip. Move up on laynack cracks. Long pitch to anchors!
P3 - alt 10b top rope down climb to hand crack. Ez climbing to bolt. Second take and swing over. Knee jam at top!
P4 - eZ bolted 5.10 to slab.
P5 - what the fuck corner! Stiff for 10a! Traverse around may be better alt! Can use sling trick to protect traverse into flake. Belay above corner (split pitch!)
P6 - climb stiff corner. Either escape left when appropriate or stem to utilise positive holds. Stiff pitch! Belay above!
P7 - traverse gravely ledge. Maybe split pitch?! Use sling trick on pillar to protect exposed traverse
P8 - chimney is fine! Way better for leader but r slab traverse is better for second. Watch for rope.drag at end!
P9 - up and right, traverse hard right at piton. Watch for detached flake! Maybe protect before and climb to LEFT of it to piton before traverse right to bolt. Sketch!
P10 - traverse on hand crimps to stem, climb up pillar to hand ledge, can place ~.3 at top? Otherwise traverse, use sling trick on piton and then downclimb to traverse with bolt. Tick holds! Can't see second for this pitch. Continue up to three piton belay. Maybe back up? Extend to see second.
P11 - traverse back left. TAKE LOW TRAVERSE. OBV sidewalk in sky. Can protect before and after. Climb up and left to single bolt and sling block belay.
P12 - go right to corner, bouldery move off the go! Either climb slab on right or continue in corner. This pitch SEEEPS in spring. Belay at top. I wrapped trees and extended belay so ropes were not rubbing rocks.