Yamnuska - Devil’s Right Hand (5.11b)

Devils right hand beta

Overall a decent route. Uninspiring and not exciting for an experienced leader. A fun lead for gym trained folks and on a casual day out. Possible used for guiding, esp for strong gym climbers. 

Start at bottom of corner

Gear .3-3 18 draws. Only need 12 max for pitches after first two.. 

P1 - stemming climbing with positive holds leads to a cruxy section with a bad crimp pinch and stemming smears. Power up to jug!

P2 - cruise right and follow jugs over choss ledge to next anchor. 

Link P1 and P2

P3 - climb choss tower to burly move off the deck, try to get draws in asap to protect fall. Undercling move with smear feet. Crux in corner, go off crimp undercling to jug at top of ridge. 

P4 - climb the chill corner and then head right. Can place gear or run out to bolts. Crux at headwall with 3 crimps beside each other. Smear foot and then power up to jug. 

P5 - 11a downsloping corner. Techy climbing with small feet. Climb slow and clip high! Mantle move at top made easier by reach to jug. 

P6 - cruise up to obv crack and traverse left to pull roof, tick holds if necessary and then go up to anchor. 

3x raps to the ground. Be mindful of how rope lays on final pitch as rope was hard to pull.